By Farr Chardonnay 2019 Geelong

Either Gary Farr didn't get the memo telling winemakers that Australia needed to make leaner, more acid-driven chardonnays to appeal to 21st century drinkers, or he ignored it. We suspect the latter. We adore the now-nostalgic pleasures of glorious ripeness and richness that this wine offers, with juicy waves of peach and apricot joined to butter, double cream, toast and vanilla from expensive, toasted, top-drawer French oak. The vineyard is nontheless on limestone, so in case you might think this was overwrought, the wine does have enough freshness and structure to support the indulgent decoration of fully ripe fruit and opulent winemaking.