Giuseppe Cortese Rabaja 2012 Barbaresco

The classical, elegantly restrained style of these wines is a thing to behold. With just the Rabaja and a village Barbaresco in production, Giuseppe Cortese, now run by son Pier Carlo, is a beacon of well-made, well-priced Barbaresco. The rich 2012 vintage should be drinking from now, with nutmeg, spiced cranberry and fine, papery tannins. Good with mushroom risotto, better with roast duck.