No one has done more than Dani Landi and Fernando Garcia at cult producer Comando G to revitalise the reputation of garnacha (aka grenache). They have shown that with early harvesting dates, respectful viticiulture, old bush vines and zero new wood, wines can be made with the perfume and compact elegance of pinot noir while still capturing the peppery, garriguey character of their area.
Dani and Fernando never intended to make an albillo real, and certainly not under flor, even though Fernando had experimented with this style while working at Bodega Maranones. But, lo and behold, this is what we have from the 2018 vintage. Don't ask, just enjoy this rare treat, with a much lighter flor influence than sherry while being less oxidative than vin jaune, so the overall impression is of bright, juicy fruit with a salty-savoury, even umami kick on the palate, with just the slightest smokiness. Aged one year in old sherry botas, and one year in glass demijohn, which the boys are very keen on. One bottle per customer (we got an allocation of two for the year).