Palomino is the grape behind Sherry and it is enjoying a quiet revolution with dry, flavourful sherries overtaking sweetened mass-market wines and the emergence of unfortified table wines that defy expectations. In this tasting we try two bone dry sherries in very different styles from producers who are leading the way in reviving the reputation of this most misunderstood wine. Gabriela Manzanilla is all about the salty tang of the sea and the gentle chamomile flavours of ageing under yeast in the seaside town of Sanlucar, while Fernando de Castilla's Oloroso from inland Jerez is rich, oily and nutty. Finally we break the mould with a dazzling unfortified white made as part of a collaboration between Alejandro Muchada of Cadiz and cult Champagne producer David Léclapart. A game-changing trio.
Barrero Manzanilla Gabriela NV, Sanlucar de Barrameda (37.5cl) £8.80
Fernando de Castilla Classic Oloroso NV, Jerez £16.70
Muchada Léclapart Univers 2018, Jerez £29.90