Philippe Gilbert Hors-sujet 2020 Loire
Roots, labour, exaltation, is the motto of this wonderful, biodynamic estate based in Menetou-Salon, a neighbour of Sancerre on a similar mix of Kimmeridgean chalk and clay.
The estate is notably old and the story begins in 1768 when Francois Gilbert abandoned his job as a publican to take over his father in law's vineyards.
Cut to the 20th century and it remains in the Gilbert family under the watchful eye of Philippe who is a passionate follower of biodynamics.
100% sauvignon blanc macerated on skins for 8 months; a combination of whole bunches and destemmed grapes, using terracotta and tank fermentation vessels. An orange wine of delicate finesse, with notes of honeydew melon and fuzzy peach skins, and a hint of baking spices.