Roots, labour, exaltation, is the motto of this wonderful, biodynamic estate based in Menetou-Salon, a neighbour of Sancerre on a similar mix of Kimmeridgean chalk and clay.
The estate is notably old and the story begins in 1768 when Francois Gilbert abandoned his job as a publican to take over his father in law's vineyards.
Cut to the 20th century and it remains in the Gilbert family under the watchful eye of Philippe who is a passionate follower of biodynamics.
In a similar vein to producers like Dagueneau, the aim here is to transcend the varietal character of sauvignon blanc, and create a terroir wine that fully highlights the kimmeridgian chalk soils of Menetou Salon. Smoky, with crushed rock, beeswax, excellent creamy texture from nearly two years of lees work, pear, peach and firm, ripe, apple fruit. Concentrated and long, with taut acidity for ageing, this is spectacular Loire white.